DISMANTLING AND ASSEMBLY OF TAILSTOCK ON LATHE PDF

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Thread: Tailstock dissassembly. Thread Tools Show Printable Version. Tailstock dissassembly I have a dumb question. I am a little confused on how to disassemble a tailstock. I was tempted to put a block between the chuck and the face plate and try to push out the chuck as I run in the quill, but I think I will scar the face plate or generally mess something up.

Take the spindle out of the casting, and set it up on an arbor press. Just make sure your feet are out of the way. May want to use penetrating oil first. There should be a knock section on the end of screw, so that you don't have to this again.

Extend the quill 3" or so and use a 2 drift in the exposed hole. I applaud your asking these questions. Whenever you are tempted to use brutal means or tools on a 10 EE walk away and rethink what you want to accomplish.

A bit perplexed here, the tailstock in your photo is shown perched on the steel rungs of a hand cart. The bottom of a tailstock is a precision component of a lathe. The hardest surface it should touch off the lathe is wood. The tool you need to remove the drill chuck didn't see a faceplate anywhere from the tailstock quill is a Morse taper eject drift. It's used as Bill described, extend the quill until the eject slot is fully exposed, insert the drift until it stops and a light but sharp rap with a light hammer will disengage the taper.

Have one hand on the drill chuck so it doesn't fall out. Here's a quick link that shows what we're talking about. It's held in place by a dog point setscrew that must be removed first.

If you grab it with pliers of any sort you'll mar its OD and make your work much more difficult. Plus, those beaver marks will be permanent and remind everyone who sees them a hack has worked on this machine.

Perhaps these photos which show all the tailstock parts laid out will be helpful so you know what you're dealing with. I've posted how to remove that bushing but it was some years back and I can't find it now. My memory of the method is dulled by time but brutal means are not in order. The goal is to apply axial force to the bushing with no damage to any part of the tailstock. Searching old threads might turn it up for you, even if it doesn't you'll learn a great deal in the process of looking around in the archives of this forum.

I concur on the drift method. Completely forgot about that method, since the only time I've used it was on a bigger lathe to get a too short live center out, and that lathe has been gone for quite a while. SO here is where I am. How do i get the last part out. There is a hole on the bottom of the brass ring, that I don't understand.

There is no set screw in it, Is it a point to put a punch in and tap around. If that is the right end of the TS where the handwheel goes, the hole is for a pin wrench, the bushing unscrews. In the second photo I posted above the fourth piece to the left of the handwheel in the upper right corner of the photo is that part resting on its threaded end.

The correct tool for the job is a pin spanner wrench, look it up. The hole in your part for the pin of the wrench has been damaged by folks doing it the brutal wrong way with a drift or screwdriver used as a punch.

Harry is correct the part unscrews, the thread is right hand so CCW to remove it. Bookmarks Bookmarks Digg del. I agree to receive emails from Practical Machinist containing industry news and updates from Practical Machinist and its sponsors. You may unsubscribe at any time.

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I keep subtracting these weights from the estimated total of , hoping to end up with nice small numbers for the bed and cabinet so I can roll them downstairs into my machine shop with a Yates appliance dolly. Update: The actual total, nuts, bolts and everything, comes to lbs. The pictures that follow are mostly taken in my garage where the forklift unloaded the machine. Another key resource for advice and especially inspiration has been Kurt Bjorn , who restored his HLV machine. These are somewhat disorgainized notes I copied from my notebook.

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